Wat Kham Chanot and the Legend of the Giant Serpents
The legend of Wat Kham Chanot
There are many legends about the temple known as Wat Kham Chanot in Udon Thani, Thailand. It even inspired a 2007 Thai horror movie called The Screening. Many believe that huge serpents called Nagas live in the lake around the temple. My favorite myth is about two friendly, well-aged Nagas that call the lake home. Their names are Grandpa Naga Pu Si Suttho and Grandma Naga Si Pathumma. Local legend has it that they come out at night and roam the temple grounds. I could almost picture them in my mind as I walked around the island.
Belief in Nagas or serpent semi-deities is somewhat common in Asian mythology. Some Nagas can take on human form and be friendly, benevolent creatures. Wat Kham Chanot is famous for the belief that offerings can be made to the Nagsa to obtain favors. The Chanot trees (taraw palms) around the temple only grow in this area and can reveal lucky lottery numbers if your prayers to the Nagas are heard. Consequently, the temple can be crowded as a lottery drawing day nears.
Another legend in nearby Nong Khai talks of naga fireballs that are released once a year on a specific night. You can read our blog on that here. (Opens in a new window/tab) For a trailer of the aforementioned horror movie, The Screening, click Here.
Keeping a Promise
Upon entering the temple compound, I noticed an attractive woman dancing in front of an altar with a Naga statue as its centerpiece. When making her wish, she had agreed that if granted, she would dance before all. What was her wish? I don’t know. How does one go about making a pact with a Naga? That, I can tell you!
First, Make an Offering
Before embarking on your visit to the actual island, make an offering to the Nagas. This can range from a couple of marigolds to elaborate Naga sculptures made from banana leaves and/or money to preserve the temple. Secondly, ask for the favor. Finally, promise to perform a certain action when the wish comes true. Indeed, most wishes here center around financial rewards. Specifically, but not exclusively, winning the lottery.
To reach the island, you walk on a bridge guarded by two seven-headed Naga statues. You must remove your shoes and hat before entering. I made the photo above on our first visit a few years ago. Unlike our latest visit, this was early in the morning on a weekday. I prefer pictures without people as they have a timeless quality. However, visiting the temple at sunset definitely stirs the imagination more.
Our Journey Begins
A snake-like railing flanks the bridge on both sides. Devotees will run their hands along the railing for good luck. The jungle growth and Chanot trees along with the thick smell of bat guano add to the atmosphere. On our latest visit, the sun was setting, and this area was dark and a bit spooky, if I may say so.
On the Island at Wat Kham Chanot
Once on the island, I began photographing the Naga pool. Pilgrims were scurrying to and fro examining the bark of the Chanot trees for numbers as the daylight was fading. Occasionally, a new arrival would dip a ladle into the pool and pour the water over their heads as a blessing. The crowd was serious and focused.
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After a few shots, I came across another shrine and took a photo. There was an intense light emanating from behind the shrine. It turned out to be the setting sun.
Next, I noticed a chanot tree near the shrine. After taking a photo, I scanned the tree, daring a lucky number to appear. While I believe that true believers can focus their energy and see anything they wish to, I had doubts about my own abilities.
My Vision of Numbers at Wat Kham Chanot
Suddenly, three large red Arabic numbers appeared to float on the tree’s surface. I laughed and blurted out that I had seen the numbers __, __, and __. Fon looked impressed and horrified at the same time. It seems that it is most inauspicious to say the numbers out loud. None the less, she immediately took out her phone and wrote down the three digits. “See, the numbers are RIGHT THERE,” I said, pointing at the tree. But, the numbers were no longer there. I told Fon that it was just an illusion caused by my accidentally looking into the setting sun just moments before. I also mentioned that I’d never won a lottery before anywhere in the world.
The Search is On!
Finding lottery numbers on a tree is only half of the battle. In Thailand, you can’t just pick numbers; you have to find the printed tickets with your numbers already on them. When we had crossed the bridge and were back on the mainland, Fon and our travel companions went to the many lottery ticket vendors in search of my number. It seems that another temple visitor had seen the same numbers that I had, consequently, all of the winning tickets were gone.
Epilogue
Since we couldn’t find the numbers on any of the lottery tickets, we decided to look for them back in Bangkok. Once in Bangkok, we found several tickets with our lucky number on them. The lottery drawing is this Friday, November 1st. –If I win the grand prize, I hereby promise that I will return to the shrine in December and serenade the Nagas with Christmas carols on my accordion. Hmm, they may not have heard anything like that before! Stay tuned…
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